TAC60 Wiring Instructions

Connecting the TLZ10 Controller to TAC60 Air Conditioners

Caution! Risk of electric shock. Your new TLZ10 temperature controller and our TAC60 enclosure air conditioners are designed for operation from a 12 Volt DC power source (such as the AC-to-DC power supply you may have purchased). Do not connect the TLZ10 or TAC60 directly to an AC source such as a wall outlet. If your power supply has a manual switch, make sure that the switch is in the correct position. In North America the switch should be set to 110 (or 115), and in Europe 220 (or 230).

There are a variety of ways to configure the TLZ10 and our TAC60 Air Conditioners. Following is the method we recommend. You will need three additional pieces of wire. Use 18 gauge wire to make all connections. Find red and black wires two to three feet long and a three inch long red “jumper” wire.

layman's wiring of TLZ10 to TAC60

1. Connect the Power Cord to the Power Supply

To attach the 3-prong power cord, first locate the three terminal posts for (AC) input on the terminal strip of the power supply. Typically these are the first three posts on the left hand side of the unit. Connect the white wire from the 3-prong power cord to the 1st post marked “L” and the black wire to the 2nd or negative post marked “N.” Finally connect the green wire to the post marked “FG” or with the ground symbol in the 3rd terminal post position. You may test the connections by plugging in your supply and observing the led glowing. Unplug the power supply until you have connected the fans.

power supply terminal strip illustration

power supply terminal post ID illustration

Typically there are two pairs (4 posts) of DC output terminals on all of our power supplies rated for 300 Watts or less. Two adjacent posts are marked “–V” in positions 4 and 5 and those marked “+V” in positions 6 and 7. Use posts numbered 4 and 6 (V- and V+) as a pair and post 5 and 7 as a pair. Red wires connect to V+ and black wires to V-.

2. Connect the Fan/s

The two pair of fan leads can be identified with white shrink wrap both exiting the assembly and directly from the smaller, cold-side fan. The lead wires are typically thinner than the leads for the TEC/s that have blue shrink wrapping. Connect the red fan leads directly to V+ post 7 on the power supply and the black fan lead from the TAC60 directly to the V- post 5. Confirm that you have the fan leads correctly attached by plugging in the power cord and observing the fans spin. If the fans are not spinning, unplug the power cord and check the previous instructions then, if unsuccessful, call or e-mail us.

We recommend connecting fans directly to the power supply so that they are supplied a constant nominal 12 Volts. If fans are connected within the loop that’s temperature controlled the fans may not supply enough airflow to keep the hot-side heatsink cool and the internal case temperature uniform.

3. Connect the TLZ10 Temperature Controller

TLZ10 terminal post illustration

On the top of the TLZ10 Controller you will see this illustration:

Connect the NTC sensor that’s included by opening slots 10 and 11 on the TLZ10 terminal strip with a small Phillips head screw driver. Insert one lead in each slot and tighten the screws to hold the leads in place. There is no + or - for the sensor leads so either wire can go in either slot. Place the actual senor (on the other end of the wire with a bullet shape) into the location, within the enclosure, where you want to sample the temperature.

On the TLZ10, slots 1 and 2, marked “SUPPLY” and are for DC power input from the power supply. Connect one end of the long spare piece of red wire to slot 1 in the TLZ10 and connect the other end to the +V output at post 6 on the power supply. Next connect the long spare piece of black wire to slot 2 on the TLZ10 and the other to the –V output at post 4 of the power supply.

Using the spare short piece of wire, that’s about 3 inches long, make a jumper from TLZ10 slot 1 (also connected to the power supply) to the TLZ10’s terminal slot 6 (common of SPDT switch).

From the TAC60, select the pair of leads exiting with blue shrink wrap. These leads are for the thermoelectric module/s inside the TAC60. Connect the red, positive lead/s to TLK10’s slot 4 identified by “NO” (meaning the normally open circuit of the SPDT relay). Finally, connect the black, negative lead from this pair to –V terminal post 4 on the power supply (not the controller).

4.) Power up and Program the TLZ10

You may now plug in the power cord and begin the programming of the TLZ10 for your application.

NOTE: The TLZ10 often ships from the factory, configured for use with a "PTC" type sensor. If you get a sensor error (E1), change the setting to accommodate the "NTC" sensor. Push and hold the "P" button until the LEDs flash. Then push the down arrow three times, until you see "SEnS," (Indicating you're in the sensor programming section). Push the "P" button to display the type of sensor selected. If "PTC" is displayed, push the down arrow and "NTC" will be displayed. Leave the controller alone for about 15 seconds, and the controller will be re-programmed with the NTC sensor detected.

NOTE: The TLZ10 typically ships from the factory configured to allow for a two (2) degree temperature differential between set-point and activation. If your requirements are for tighter control you can reduce the acceptable differential to zero. Push and hold the "P" button until the LEDs flash. Then push the down arrow seven times, until you see "HSEt," (Indicating Hysteresis and you're in the temperature differential programming section). Push the "P" button to display the current differential. Push the down arrow until "0" is displayed. Leave the controller alone for about 15 seconds, and the controller will be re-programmed.

NOTE: The TLZ10 can be programmed for either heating or cooling, but not both simultaneously. By default the controller is set for operation in the cooling mode. Since most customers use our thermoelectric assemblies for cooling, our instructions and illustrations are for operation in this mode.

If you would like to use our assemblies for heating, the polarity must be reversed to the thermoelectrics in the assembly, and the controller be re-programmed.

Wiring: With the power supply unplugged select the TE leads from the assembly, identified with blue shrink wrap. Connect the black lead from the TEs to post 4 on the TLZ10 and the red lead from the TEs to a positive (+) post on the power supply. Leave the fans, identified with white shrink wrap, connected as described and illustrated above (red to + and black to -).

Re-program the controller: Reconnect the power then push and hold the "P" button on the TLZ10 until the LEDs flash. Push the down arrow 11 times until you see "Func," (Indicating "function" and you're in output programming section). Push the "P" button and "Cool" will be displayed. Push the down arrow and "HEAt" will display. Leave the controller alone for about 15 seconds, and the controller will be re-programmed.

Click to see the TLZ10 User Manual.

TLK38 Wiring Notes:

Wiring the dual set-point TLK38 is very similar to the TLZ10 but since TLK38 has two outputs, it will require additional wiring. One or both of the TLK38's two outputs can be used for cooling or warming. Most of our customers want one output for cooling and one for warming but, both can be used for different set-point in ether the cooling or warming mode.

The following instructions show how to wire the TLK38 for cooling on output 1 and warming on output 2. Simply duplicate the instructions for cooling or warming, as necessary, on both outputs if you want two different set-points for cooling or warming.

1-to-2 Splitters Required: Since the TLK38 has two outputs, each of the two TE leads, identified with blue shrink wrap, must be modified with a one-to-two (1 to 2) splitter. Splitters from Molex or Amp are available.

Connect the single port of each of the two splitters to each of the two TE leads. For the two leads emanating from the other end of the splitter, we recommend one red, and one black lead. This makes it easy to identify the proper lead to use for the cooling or warming circuits.

Output 1 - Cooling:

Use the first output "OUT1" on the TLK38, for cooling. Connect the red lead from the splitter emanating from the red TE lead, to post 3 on the TLK38. The remaining black lead from this splitter is connected to a negative (-) terminal post on the power supply (as described and illustrated for the TLZ10 above).

Output 2 - Warming:

Use the second output "OUT2" on the TLK38, for warming. The polarity to the TEs must be the reversed in a circuit for warming. Connect the black lead from the splitter connected to the black TE lead, to post 6 on the TLK38. The remaining red lead from this splitter is connected to a positive (+) terminal post on the power supply.

Be sure that the set-point for each output is appropriate for the requested action.

Other pages that may be of interest to you include:

Standard TAC60 Enclosure Air Conditioner $199-

The Standard 12V TAC60 Air Conditioner is intended for use indoors (IP20). TAC60 Data Sheet

Weatherproof TAC60-E Enclosure Air Conditioner $249-

The Environmentally Protected 12V TAC60-E Air Conditioner may be used outdoors (IP55). TAC60-E Data Sheet

Quantity buyers please call us to place your order 1-866-665-5434.

TAC60 Links

Temperature Controllers

TLZ10 Temperature Controller photo
Single Set-Point TLZ10
TLK38 photo
Dual Set-Point TLK38

Wiring

TAC60 Options

  • TLZ-10 prewired with at desired set-point $25
  • Extra Waterproof Fan $40
Fan Shroud Photo
  • Cold-Side Fan Shroud $6
    When flipping the cold-side fan over, you may direct the airflow for spot cooling or deep into an enclosure. The fan shroud creates turbulence in the heatsink that keeps the airflow cold.

Supplemental Information